I am definitely biased, but this is one of my favorite markets in all of Saigon. Having lived in Saigon for around 6 months now, almost every single day begins with my 5 minute walk to the market.
Bàn Cờ, translates to “Chessboard” due to the way the market resembles the shape and design of the popular board game.
From wholesale materialistic goods, medicinal items, fresh market vendors, and food vendors, this market is anything but peaceful. Yet to me, it feels like home. It’s a place where you have to get a little too close to strangers, smell and see things you’ve never imagined, and see what daily life is like for someone in Saigon.
You’ll hear things shouted at the highest tones, but don’t worry, it’s just an Auntie asking you to come buy something from her. While it may seem chaotic, rushed, and unwelcoming at first glance. This market will give back to you if you give it the chance it deserves. Intertwined and built upon years of iconic Saigon eats and sellers this market will reward you with an ultimate “checkmate” in flavor.
#1 Banh Mi
Bánh Mì Đặc BiệtHands down my favorite under $1 banh mi in Saigon.
Friendly people doing all the small extra steps resulting in a Banh Mi with major flavor. Making all the ingredients fresh daily. The showstopper for me is the pate.
Besides the unforgettable pate, this Banh Mi is stuffed with a bushel of cilantro, a freshly fried up egg, cold cuts, mayo, pickled vegetables, cucumber, sauce, and a few peppers if you desire.
Not to forget the most crucial step, a quick toss on the charcoal for the Banh Mi to enhance that crispness.
For me, this Banh Mi symbolizes harmony. Nothing is overdone, but instead everything is done the right way, resulting in an extremely tasty Banh Mi. The fact that it is less than a dollar, seems like you might as well be stealing.
Bánh Quẩy (Fried Chinese Dough Stick)
I can eat Bánh Quẩy any given day. I bet I eat this 5-6 times a week. It goes perfectly with any noodle dish and/or makes the perfect snack until I find what I want to eat that morning.
This stall has pretty much perfected the banh quay. The dough isn't overworked, resulting in a slight chew, light, and airy banh quay. The thinness they roll the sheets, with inferno levels of hot oil, cause the raw dough to poof when thrown into the ragging hot wok, resulting in a light, crispy, banh quay.
When you sink your teeth into one of these straight out of the fryer, be ready for a glass shattering crunch.
Just make sure to do yourself a favor, get one to snack on and one to have later with your noodles.
Red Buckets Full Of Fermented Vietnamese Flavors
My go to lady for all things fermented.
Maybe it's the red 5-gallon buckets, or how everything is piled as high as a mountain, but I can't resist stopping here and buying small bags of multiple goodies.
However, not for everybody. If you're a beginner the Cà pháo (Vietnamese eggplant), is a great place to start.
Keep your bag of Cà pháo with you when you go eat Cơm Tấm (Broken Rice) or Cơm Bình Dân(Economy Rice).
Many of these fermented products are the bases for sauces you can eat with your meals to really take the flavor and experience to the next level. If you're up for the pungent, funky, flavor bomb here, take a local and learn how to make some of the best tasting sauces in the world.
Top Choice
Măng Vịt
Set your alarm clock for this lady, selling out most days by 10am and sometimes even 9am.
Down one of the narrow alleys of female clothing in the market, you may not be able to find her very well, but you should be able to hear the loud sound of a cleaver aggressively chopping up half and quartered ducks.
You can have your choice of Bún or Miến style noodles, but I seem to always opt for the Miến (Glass noodles) as I find the texture so irresistible with the rich duck meat.
More bamboo shoots than you ever knew you needed, copious amounts of fried shallots, scallions, and garlic.
Served with a dipping sauce called Nước Mắm Gừng, which is very common with all duck dishes. Consisting of Nuoc mam, sugar, chilis, garlic and an antioxidant super charged dose of ginger.
I find myself frequently asking for an extra order of the blood cakes, praying that she hasn't already sold out. Because is you didn't know, duck blood cakes are the king of all blood cakes.
Bánh Khọt
Almost ironic that this spot is pretty much in the geographical center of the market, as it feels like I am drawn to it like energy is to a dark hole.
You'll notice the massive amount of take away orders this place cranks out as the lady is alway pouring batter, oil, and flipping the banh khot to a golden perfection.
I, myself, enjoy sitting in one of two chairs and watching this lady and man work together in harmony. After frying these up you have the option of adding coconut sauce. I am always pro coconut sauce, but don't feel like you have to have it if you are not a fan.
After your plate of Bánh khọt, nước chấm, herbs and lettuces are places in front of you it is time for assembly.
The assembly is easy, first pluck all the herbs from their stems. Then make a bottom layer with the lettuce, add the herbs you want, add banh khot and then wrap. Give it a dip in your nước chấm (nước mắm, sugar, chili) and devour!
Bánh Bèo Huế
Bánh Bèo Huế is a dish from the central part of Vietnam, but actually this dish here, consist of many delicacies of central Vietnam in one plate.
Bánh ít, nem nướng, chả, bánh bột lọc, bánh cuốn, and bánh bèo all floating on top of a pool of sweetened nước mắm.
Various textures from chewy, soft, crunchy, and silky will keep you intrigued. What looks simple, but is very labor intensive dish, so make sure to stop here and enjoy people making a delicious version that sells out quick. So come at 2pm when they open.
Bánh cuốn
A lady that moved from the North and has been making Bánh cuốn for over 40 years.
You just can’t pay enough for her experience. The way she effortlessly makes the rice flour rolls every single time. A work flow that only comes from countless hours, days, and years of making bánh cuốn.
The rice rolls are stuffed with a cassava, wood ear mushroom, and ground pork. A mixture that will burst with umami, and linger with earthy tones.
But the secret is in the sauce.
A combination of nước mắm and coconut water. Something you don’t see everywhere but you need to try if you have the chance.
Late Night Hangout Spot
Various Ốc (Snails)
Just a heads up this is not the famous Ốc Loan, this is a different stall from what I understand. However, if you want a tight corners, local feel then you will definitely get that here.
And actually, this is two sellers crammed down one alley together (I told you it was tight corners here).
I can't think of a dish I ate here that made me want to come back time and time again. However, the various dishes are satisfying and being in this environment is quite unique in itself.
Phở Chua (Sour Phở)
Phở apparently comes in many forms and one style you can try is this pho chua or “Sour Pho”.
It may sound a little strange and it doesn’t really remind me of Phở, but this is just one of those dishes you have to try at least once.
Various pieces of chicken and pork, crushed peanuts, papaya, crackers, all slathered in this sweet and sour goopy sauce.
What is also unique to this dish that is what I do believe are fried wonton wrappers that have been coated in chilis and crushed.
Bánh Su Que
You can actually find a couple of these stores around district 3, but when over in this market, you might as well stop by and grab you a few sweet snacks to munch on.
Basically, a cream puff in an elongated shape. I find the balance of creamy texture and sweetness to be the perfect match to go with a coffee in the afternoon.
Chuối chiên
Still one of the best fried bananas I have had in all of Vietnam.
After smashing the sour banana flat, this lady will place the banana in the rice flour then to directly slide the banana into the fryer. After cooking for a little while she will then again pull out the fried banana and give it another coating in the mixture before returning to the fryer to finish cooking.
The fried batter has two textures, light and crispy on the outside and the inside layer, which has combined with the banana to become doughy, ooey, and gooey.
These bananas are ultra ripe resulting in a sweet, yet touch of sour flavor.
Vietnamese Dim Sum
If you are used to Hong Kong style dim sum, this may not hit home for you, but if you just enjoy dim sum and want to see how it is done to a local's liking, then this is a must visit place.
But the main reason you would want to come here is for the cheese stuffed crabs.
If you want to fix that Dim Sum craving then make sure to check out my Dim sum guide for Saigon, here!
Extra
There is a lady that sells the best grilled corn with fried scallions in the afternoon. Get there around 2pm when she starts because she sells out by 3:30-4pm.
I tried marking as many spots as I could, especially if it was located on the outside of the market; however, for everything else, you are going to have to explore the market for!
Have fun and good eats.
Love to see this every day !