The epicenter for Vietnam's northern cuisine.
This place has history. And you don’t just feel it when you are walking around, you see it in the buildings, feel it in the culture, and can taste it in the food. It isn’t uncommon to find street food stalls that have been open 20, 30, or even more than 40 years.
The birthplace of some of Vietnam’s most well-known dishes such as: phở, bún chả, chả cá, and more. The flavors here are more delicate and richer compared to other regions of Vietnam’s cuisine. As the cuisine in the north has influence from the French and Chinese.
1. Bún Chả
A dish that is rumored to have originated in Hanoi. While the origins of this dish’s birth place my not be known, Hanoian’s are more than happy to make dish feel like it’s always been at home in Hanoi.
Bún chả has had the locals transfixed with it’s flavors as early as the 1950’s and probably earlier than that.
A dish consisting of grilled fatty (usually) pork shoulder and pork belly known as chả, more grilled meat, and pickled vegetables (usually papaya and carrot) all submerged in a dipping sauce.
Served with bún, a thin rice noodle with a circular shape, and accompanied with a massive plate of herbs like: Vietnamese balm, perilla, lettuce, cilantro, and bean sprouts. But of course, each place has it’s own preference.
And just like there is no Batman without Robin, there is no complete bún chả experience without a side order of fried spring rolls or Nem rán as it is called in the northern accent.
You can find bún chả on every corner in Hanoi, especially in areas such as the Old Quarter. So much so you may think the dish is more popular than Phở.
I unfortunately, have only had a chance to eat at a few locations, but through local friends I feel like I don’t have to try every single one as these next two locations are absolutely fabulous.
Bún Chả Hàng Quạt
This seems to be the favorite for Vietnamese all over Vietnam. Any time I talked to a local or someone who lives outside the city, this is their recommendation.
A tiny little alley, but easy to find with the large amounts of delivery drivers grabbing 10-15 orders to take to offices around the city.
Earlier is better than later here if you want to make sure to be able to try everything.
Bún Chả Tuyết
From humble beginnings, the owners started in a market only able to do take away, as they didn't have the space to set up tables and chairs. However, that was 40 years ago. Now known for being the spot for physical labor workers, business people on a budget, and students.
A little something special about here is they wrap their chả in Xương sông. When this leaf is eaten raw it is known for it's medicinal properties, but when wrapped around meat it adds a slight spicy component.
2. Ngan
Con Ngan, translated is Goose, but depending who you talk to is better described as a fat duck raised on land.
Even though some things are lost in translation, one thing we can all agree on is that this is a much eat while in Hanoi.
You can find Ngan all over Hanoi and in various forms, from noodles, hot pot, fried and covered in garlic, and one of my favorite ways, coated in an abundant of spices and thrown over a raging hot plate with oil and fresh onions.
Huyền Anh
I would literally take a plane to Hanoi, pay the crazy taxi price from the airport to eat this and then go back to the airport.
It’s that good.
The combination of Hanoi’s iconic Ngan, fresh onion, warming spices, aromatic herbs, and high heat, make an unforgettable combination. The best part, is when the oil, fatty parts of the Ngan, and high heat from the iron skillet create a layer that I can’t describe any better than a good ole “money bite”.
If you want, you can check out my video about it this place below.
3. Phở
Don’t limit yourself to just Phở Bò, feel free to enjoy the variety of ways Phở is served in its birth place.
3a. Phở Bò
Now, I am not going to sit here in and tell you where the best phở is in Hanoi. It’s not because I want to keep it a secret, it’s just because I don’t know. Having lived in Vietnam for awhile now, I have eaten phở a shameful few times. So I am definitely no expert; however, I will give you the best recommended places I have found from my research.
Phở Thìn
The only phở I have eaten in Hanoi that I would recommend. That sounds bad. It's not the phở, it's me.
Anyways, what makes Thin's phở unique is they stir-fry beef with garlic before adding it to the broth. Resulting in a more fragrant bowl of phở.
Others worth eating:
- Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su (The chain)
- Phở Gia Truyền Bát Đàn (The museum of Pho)
- Phở Sướng
- Pho Phu Xuan
- Pho Vui
- Pho Bo Lam
- Phở Mặn Gầm Cầu (Salty and bold flavor)
Yes, I know, next trip to Hanoi, I will have a phở agenda.
3b. Phở Gà
So beef isn't what's for dinner, but that's no problem because if there is something the locals love just as much as their beef phở, it's the chicken phở.
I am probably cheating a little bit here, I didn't eat the phở. I actually had the miến, but I know with a broth this flavorful, I could put strips of cardboard box in it and I'd happily eat this.
Got to eat the blood cake here as well.
Again just like phở bò, your choices are endless.
- Phở gà Châm
- Phở gà Xín Mần
- Phở Lâm (Same as above for phở bò)
- Phở gà Chí
- Phở Bản
- Phở Thảo
- Phở gà Hàng Điếu
- Phở Hà - Hàng Hòm
3c. Phở Xào
Phở Xào Phú Mỹ
A combination of phở ingredients thrown over a raging hot wok. With the intense aroma from the high heat, the subtle warming spices that we all know and love from phở are lost, but instead you are left with a smokey, beef, noodle. Coated in a corn starch slurry and an addition of choy sum, make this dish seem distant from the phở that ranks as one of the best dishes around the world and more into something of it's own.
Honestly, it reminds me of all the beef hor fun I used to eat in Hong Kong when I lived there.
But the locals seem to love it, as all chairs were taken when I ate my lunch here. But it also seemed like nobody was able to finish a whole serving either. So just know, one serving is big enough to share, especially if you want to continue eating afterwards.
4. Bánh Cuốn
Fermented rice batter that’s spread thin, wide, and steamed. Filled usually with seasoned ground pork and wood ear mushrooms rolled and thrown on a plate, only to be finished with a topping of fried shallots.
Typically eaten more for breakfast, but not uncommon to find bánh cuốn in the late hours of the night as well.
One of the beauties of bánh cuốn in Hanoi is the serving of chả quế that comes along with it. A Vietnamese sausage that has been coated and infused with cinnamon. None of that fake imported Cassia you eat in America either. Like the real Vietnamese cinnamon. Subtle, warming, and delicate, when you eat real cinnamon, it doesn’t contain any sweetness but instead helps enhance the taste of sweetness.
Bánh Cuốn Đức Hạnh
- I just wanted to give a fair warning, this place is not easy to find at all and it is a little far out so please proceed with caution. However, I have a pretty good icon with it’s location on the map below and you can watch the video here to familiarize yourself with the area.
This lady is an absolute queen. She makes Bánh cuốn Hà Giang style. That means, tiny rolled bánh cuốn and the thing that has ruined all other bánh cuốn for me, the bánh cuốn with the egg. So if you don’t have time to take the multiple day journey at to the northern mountains, you can try Hà Giang style Bánh Cuốn right in Hanoi.
5. Cơm Bình Dân
If you know anything about me, you know how passionate I am about Cơm Bình Dân it’s something that I recommend eating the most for everybody traveling to Vietnam. It’s the CBD in your life you didn’t know you needed.
If you want to see what types of foods are enjoyed by locals every day, in their homes, and really connect Vietnam food with culture, these are you places.
Oh, and not to forget the best part, the options are endless at a CBD stall.
Tiệm cơm Vinh Thu
Located right in the heart of Hanoi. This place will sell out in a couple hours as business people and locals cram in here for a taste of their favorite lunch spot. And you know I have a video about it as well, just below.
6. Bánh Tôm
Shrimp fritters consisting of julienned sweet potatoes coated in batter, topped with shrimp, then deep-fried until golden and crispy.
Accompanied by lettuce or herbs used for wrapping the shrimp fritters, these are then dunked into a nước chấm and devoured. Of course for me, no serving of Bánh Tôm is complete without an icy cold beer.
Bánh Tôm are thought to have become common in the 1930s when small street vendors began selling along Thanh Nien Street. Government noticed the popularity of these stalls and later combined many together to make the now famous Banh Tom Ho Tay restaurant. If you want the perfect setting on the lake, with a cold beer, and Bánh Tôm, then I encourage you to eat here.
If you want something closer to the city, with a true street food vibe, and amazing bánh tốm, then make sure to check out, Bánh Tôm Hàng Bồ.
7. Chả Cá
Chả cá means something different in Hanoi. In other parts of Vietnam chả cá is fried fish paste, but in Hanoi, this dish is a staple and must eat when in the city. This dish is loved so much, there is even a chả cá street near the old quarter, named after…you guessed it this dish.
In Hanoi, chả cá is fish that has been marinated, for at least an hour, in a mix of turmeric, garlic, shallots, galangal, salt, sugar, and fish sauce.
Pre-cooked (usually grilled) before being brought to you in a pan full of dill, spring onions, and oil. Once everything has cooked down at your table, feel free to start combining the rest of your ingredients into your serving bowl and enjoy.
Chả cá Lão Ngư Restaurant
I like to enjoy my chả cá a little untraditionally. This dish is typically made with cá lóc (snakehead fish); however, I like to drive a little more south for a restaurant that does it with cá lăng (A type of catfish). Now, I am a little baised as I was raised on catfish, but the proof is in the taste. Meatier, flakier, juicier (cá lóc alway taste a little dry to me), and just a preferred flavor make this a must eat chả cá in Hanoi.
Plus this place has mắm tôm. Not the type of restaurant where you have to ask for it either. Local or foreigner, it doesn’t matter. You will receive a bowl of Mắm tôm. My kind of place.
For the history lovers:
Over 130 years ago, chả cá was first invented by the Doan family, who served chả cá to troops during French colonial rule. The dish was a hit. Many encouraged the family to open a restaurant.
Well, they did.
That restaurant is now one of the most well known restaurants in all of Hanoi, Cha Ca La Vong.
Following the restaurant’s major success, dozens of chả cá restaurants opened on the same street.
8. Xôi
Xôi, sticky rice, is something that is loved all the way from the north to south and everywhere between.
Of course, every region has their specialities and differences. Hanoi happens to serve up sticky rice some of my favorite ways.
Oh and just fair warning, sticky rice is really only consumed mornings and late at night. It’s not something ever eaten during the middle of the day since it sits so heavily on the stomach.
Xoi Gia Truyen Ba Thu
This has to be one of the most ridiculous (in a good way) bowls of sticky rice I have ever eaten.
Pork belly, Chinese sausage, pate, fish cake, and a fried egg that have been simmering in a pot of broth time and time again.
I am honestly a little perplexed at how so many people were eaten this on the way to school and work, because all I could think about after eating this was when I could lay down and take a nap.
Xôi Xéo – Xôi Mây
Just a couple ladies serving up some awesome xôi xéo, a type of sticky rice that is a specialty to Hanoi.
Turmeric cooked sticky rice, combined with cooking oil, mung bean paste, and fried shallots. You may not be able to see these ladies at first as they will be surrounded by locals and Grab workers trying to place their orders.
9. Bánh Mì
Impossible to put into a single category.
Thịt Xiên Nướng – Quán Bà Ngà
Keeping it simple, delicious grilled meat on skewers, banh mi, cucumber, and in house made chili sauce.
Usually 2 skewers come with a banh mi, but the ball is in your court. I found an extra one or two to be the right amount for me.
Bánh Mì Bác An – Quán Thánh
Come here for the most well balanced banh mi paté in Hanoi. Creamy pate, crispy bread, and refreshing vegetables all in a beautiful harmony.
You hate it or you love it
Bánh Mì Nem Khoai Hồ Hai Bà
Extremely popular with the younger generation in Hanoi. What I at first thought was a new "fad" food in Hanoi, only to talk to the auntie running the place and find out she had been there for 20 plus years. Selling more than just this bánh mì this lady has been filling up the kids in this area with cheap, processed foods you never want to tell your parents you've been eating.
Stuffed with nem chua rán (fried fermented pork rolls), french fries, fried corn, a fried hot dog, pickled vegetables, and then covered and smothered in a tomato and white sauce.
I know this isn't for everybody. However, having grown up with fried Bologna and mustard on white bread, this processed food stuffed inside white bread, covered, smothered, and slathered in sauce does more than just hit right on my tastebuds, it give me a little memory of home half way across the world.
10. Bún Mọc
Bụn mọc originated from Moc village (Hence the name). Usually, a pork bone based broth with balls made from minced pork, shiitake mushrooms and wood ear mushroom.
Not a dish that will "wow" you with flavor, but instead makes for the perfect easy wake up in the morning. If you have had a long night, or you just want something smooth and comforting, then give bún mọc a try.
Bún Mọc Hàng Lược
I enjoy this version because of the helping of bamboo shoots. Also, like most places in Hanoi, you can get the addition of the egg in the broth.
11. Miến Lươn
Talk to any Hanoian that has been away from Hanoi and miến lươn is one of the first dishes they will tell you they miss the most.
Miến lươn is a glass noodle with eel dish, that can be served in a variety of ways.
Miến lươn Thủy Lợi
This place has been serving varying eel dishes for over 30 years. Since I have no self control and only one chance to eat here I ended up ordering three versions.
For me the favorite was the stir fried version (miến lươn xào), the aroma of the wok, the high heat transforming the glass noodles, encompassed by massive crunchy fried eel, was an unforgettable combination.
However, if it was a hotter day and I wanted something lighter and refreshing, then I would have to go with the miến lươn trộn. A mixture of herbs, blanched glass noodles, peanuts, nước mắm, and more thrown into a bowl.
Ready for you to toss and devour.
12. Bún Đậu Mắm Tôm
One of my all time favorite dishes in Vietnam. Shrimp paste (Mắm Tôm), fresh herbs, tofu, cured pork, rice noodles, and maybe some blood sausage or fried pork intestines if you’re lucky.
Not for everybody as some cannot stand the pungent shrimp paste, but I do encourage you to at least try it once. If you still can’t get over the fermented shrimp paste, you can always add more calamansi, oil, or sugar to cut back on the flavor.
Streetside Bún Đậu Mắm Tôm
I like this lady, it’s simple. Been open for 5 years now and drawing in the crowds of somewhere that has been around for decades. She opens around 11 and is sold out around 1-2pm, so make sure to come earlier than later.
13. Bún Ốc
Saigon has it's late night snails cooked various ways, but Hanoi has snail noodles.
Bún ốc Giang phố cổ
One of the most famous bún ốc in Hanoi. Having been open for 15 years, located in the heart of the Old Quarter, and having been in publications by CNN, you can bet this place has earned it's reputation.
Light, delicate, sweet and tangy; however, the perfect amount of oil and scallions help balance this bowl. And using a combination of larger and smaller snails for difference in texture and taste.
I know people will say the bowl is expensive, but the quality and quantity of snails, the tedious work put into this bowl, and prime location (means high rent), all make it worth the extra 20,000vnd (less than $1), compared to other bowls.
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14. Bún Gánh
I never really knew about these noodles before, and now having eaten them…
I still don’t really know about these noodles.
But sometimes all you need to know is that they are delicious. These noodles check that box easily.
Bún Ziu Gánh – Cô Yến
With ingredients piled as high as this ladies head, I felt like I need to get on a step ladder to see her to place my order.
I still wonder how she makes money selling these noodles, so many ingredients and such a low price. I found the broth to be similar to bún ốc and bún riêu, but that could have been the massive amount of chili oil and mắm tôm I added.
No matter what, try these noodles out. I love to substitute the bún noodle for the bánh đa (A red rice noodle that comes from Hai Phong).
15. Bánh Rán
Literally translated to fried bread, but don’t let that fool you. This little snack can be enjoyed sweet (ngọt) or savory(mặn).
You can find these little stuffed fried bread snacks all over Hanoi, but if you are up for a little journey, this is your go to spot.
Bánh Rán Queen
You will get to meet a lady I like to call the “Queen of Bánh Rán”.
Making Bánh rán for over 30 years, there is something about this lady’s bánh rán that just hits different.
My favorite being the “salty”, but really if you are going to make the trip out here, not trying both would be a crime.
The crispy outside is always a win with me, but it’s the ooey, gooey, inside section of her dough that makes these bánh rán so darn special.
16. Gà Tần Bà Dậu
If you are up for some late night noodles that are a little different, then this is your place. For me, these are beer time noodles.
This place reminds me to never judge something by appearance. This place may look like somewhere you don’t want to stop for noodles. But you really do.
Every piece of offal, unhatched egg, and more was cleaned and cooked to perfection. I feel like this bowl could make an offal lover out of anybody. So flavorful, so tasty, so clean.
The bread is something else, a honey like sweetness with a shattering crunch.
However, that isn’t even this place’s specialty. They are known for the chicken being cooked in medicinal Chinese herbs and spices. The main plant used is Mugwort (Cây ngãi cứu). Part of the daisy family and used as a “tonic” for a serious of illnesses, if you know anything about Chinese medicine, bitter can cure everything. So the more bitter, the more better.
I love bitter flavor, but even for me this was on the stronger end. Not for everybody, but if you want to try it, well, now you know.
17. Bún Bò Huế
I know, what the heck am I doing...telling you to eat Bún bò Huế in Hanoi. What may seem a little strange at first, but stick with me. This spicy noodle that originates from, you guessed it Huế, is a favorite among locals all over Vietnam.
That means you can find some delicious Bún bò Huế in about every city of Vietnam.
Quán Quân Bún bò Huế
If you come during rush hour (I don't advise it), you can see the staff preparing orders of Bún bò Huế at record speed.
Luckily they are open all day, so you can enjoy this at a slower paced and much calmer time.
A little far outside the city, but worth the trip. It's one of the better Bún bò Huế I have eaten.
Tip: Tea is free if you get it yourself. But if you ask it's 5k vnd.
18. Bún Cá
Not all bún cá is created the same.
There is a version that is, light, subtle, and truly appreciates the flavor of the delicate fish. Then there is the kind I would recommend, sweet and tangy from the addition of tomatoes and pineapple.
Bún Cá Sâm Cây Si
One of the best known places for Bún cá and for good reason. Crispy, meaty fried fish, a sweet and tangy broth from tomatoes and pineapple and generous topping of cooked down spring onions.
The Sweet Side Of Hanoi
Chè
A traditional Vietnamese sweet beverage, pudding, dessert soup, or really anything. The types of Chè are endless.
However, I like to just divide Chè into two categories warm and cold.
Quán Chè Mười Sáu
A pretty typical and popular choice at any Chè stall, the thập cẩm (combination).
Every stall does it a little different, but usually it’s a mixture of beans, legumes, jellies, shredded coconut, and a sweet syrup with ice.
Just sweet enough to take away that craving, yet light and cooling enough to beat the heat of the day.
However, what I really loved here was the sticky rice variety. A coconut, soup? Almost like a pudding more than soup, with shredded coconut.
Yet, this place has numerous types and combinations you can choose from.
One of my favorite things to do before I understood Vietnamese was to point at something at a menu and see what came out. If you aren’t as adventurous as me, a Chè shop would be a safe place to play this game.
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Cà Phê Trứng
The famous Hanoian Egg Coffee.
Sometimes I feel like names are translated from Vietnamese to English too literally.
I feel like this should be, "Light, airy, sweet, custardy egg whip with a bottom layer of Vietnamese strong coffee"
Hmmm, yeah maybe egg coffee works.
Giảng Cafe
The original and still holding it down as one of the best in Hanoi. I don't even know of anywhere else that does egg coffee.
Kem
Vietnam’s ice cream.
Trang Tien Ice Cream
Located just below Hoan Kiem Lake, you can catch locals and tourist enjoying the day and evening with some ice cream that has been around since 1958.
Make sure to not buy in front, but continue to walk into the back of the warehouse.
The Magic of Tết
As if there wasn't enough things to celebrate for Vietnamese Lunar New Year.
Things like bánh chưng make me wish Tết was a year round celebration. Bánh chưng is a special dish you can only find around the time before Tết.
A dish consisting of glutinous rice, mung bean, pork belly, and usually a few other ingredients depending on who makes it. Then wrapped in lá dong, a leaf used in Vietnam for wrapping and cooking.
When the time arrives you can find multiple street vendors frying this dish up in pork fat.
In my biased opinion, you want the ones that have been fried a little extra long. But not setting around in oil all day, it's a balancing act to find the perfect one.
Of course the south of Vietnam has this dish as well, but you will see it called Bánh tét. Bánh tét is formed into a cylindrical shape, the leaf used to wrap it and a few ingredients differ from bánh chưng as well.
More Must Eats
Of course, make sure to check out my Youtube Channel for videos of these eats and more. And here is a list of dishes I would love to find delicious spots for the next time I am in Hanoi.
- Bun Rieu
- Mỳ Vằn Thắn
- Cháo Lòng
- Bún Ngan
- Bánh Giò
- Chả Rươi
- Coconut Coffee
- Mì tim cật
Note: Due to Corona and the multiple shutdowns, I cannot confirm if all of these places are still up and running like they were before. So please be understanding that hours, location, or some other factor may have happened since I updated this article.
